Leaving Nepal

Swayambhumath - The Monkey Temple in Kathmandu

Yep, you guessed it. A temple with what? A lot of monkeys. Lots. And lots of dogs, and sadhus smoking pot. And stupas and people. There are also shops, restaurants and hostels.

This is what Wikipedia says: This temple is an ancient religious complex atop a hill and the Tibetan name for the site means 'Sublime Trees'. Swayambhunath is one of the most sacred sites of Buddhist pilgrimage in Nepal, second only to Boudhanath (we have a video on that below).

The Swayambhunath complex consists of a stupa, a variety of shrines and temples, including a Tibetan monastery, a museum and a library. The stupa has Buddha's eyes and eyebrows painted on. Between them, there is something painted which looks like the nose - but is the Nepali symbol of 'unity'.

The Bodhnath Stupa in Kathmandu

Morning in Kathmandu

We've travelled from one of the richest cities in the world to one of the poorest countries in the world. We have come and gone from Kathmandu, Nepal's capital.

Nepal, according to our guidebook, is the 8th poorest country in the world. I believe it however there was so much sweetness present. We haven't been able to upload the videos we have.... we'll keep trying from time to time. We've even tried now that we've reach the technolgy capital of India.... to no avail.

Nepal is the most physically beautiful country, thought it is hard to see some of it through the thick layer of pollution and smoke. Here, the most angelic people seem to live. We went from Stupa to temple to the most beautiful Hindus and Buddhists live and worship side by side in the many stupas and temples throughout the city. There is a lot of poverty, oprhaned, dirty children, and many stray dogs. The city is highly polluted from the cars, huge piles of burning incense, truck exhaust, brick factories, and fires people use to heat their homes.

Nepal recently lost their king (he was kicked out for not helping the people, and moved out of the city) and the Maoist government (mostly guerillas from the western part of the country) came into power after shoing their strennth over time, killing police and taken their weapons. All in the name of sharing wealth with the people. Then have not done anything. And they've left a lot of homeless children in their wake. And no one is in charge. There really is very little infrastructure and government at this time at all. No trash collection, no clean water, no running water in most parts, intermittant electricity, and no pollution controls at all.

Here's an example. We travel down the streets (not necessarily paved), four vehicles to a lane (not really a lane) - motorcycles, bikes, cars, trucks and buses and arrivea at a busy intersection, and there are traffic lights, but they are all turned off. When we asked why, it was because they never worked and no one paid attention. There could be one or two police officers there ineffectually waving in different directions, and then comes the game of chicken. And it is wild and scary. But we got to where we were going and only saw two accidents.

When we spoke with some Nepalese, we got around to asking them if they were Maoist or Congress (for the King) and if they were Hindu or Buddhist. I'd say it was 50-50 for each. And that is the sweet part. The harmony and the sweetness was radiant.

We walked a few blocks from our hotel to Bodhnath - one of the world's largest stupas - a reglious monument for Tibetan Buddhists (there are a lot of refugees from Tibet here). Devotees walk clockwise around the stupa turning the prayer wheels and chanting Om Mane Padme Hum - the traditional mantra for Tibetan Buddhists. There is a ritual where prayer flags are raised, and saffron colored water is thrown from buckets to create a look of lotus leaves - apparently this bestows blessings on all, and especially to the one who 'gives a donation.' We did that. I know we are blessed.