Pashupatinath Shiva Temple in Kathmandu

Here is the biggest Shiva temple in all of Nepal. We weren't allowed in because we aren't born Hindu, though if you ask Marty, he'll say he's Hindu sometimes.

Our taxi driver, Mukti (his name means freedom), gave us the tour here. And though we didn't go into the temple, we looked in, and saw the back of a massive cow sculpture called Nandi, Shiva's sacred cow. You'll see a lot of cows outside of this temple too. They'll eat anything. One in this video is being fed chapatis.

Most of the sadhus (practitioners of yoga solely dedicated to achieving moksha, or liberation from rebirth, through meditation) wear orange colored clothing, symbolizing renunciation. And the ones who follow Shiva tend to frequent cremation grounds. The ones around this temple aren't Nepalese, they're from India. Many of them are charlatans but some are legitimate, and it is impossible to tell the difference. They were all gathering at this temple because of the coming Shivaratri celebration. They'll each choose a spot where they'll live and worship for the next few weeks.

Marty spent a little time with them, as you'll see, and said that they're either in an extremely high state of consciousness or, they were wearing some sweet rose perfume, because they smelled great even though they were covered with the ash from the cremations (which you'll see in this video).

The Bagmati River is considered a holy river both by Hindus and Buddhists and is where cremations take place. Hindus are cremated on the banks of this river. According to the Nepalese Hindu tradition, the dead body must be dipped three times into the river before cremation to purify it. The chief mourner (usually the first son - no women are allowed) lights the funeral pyre and then must bathe in the river immediately after cremation.

The steps going down to the river are known as 'ghats'. Ghats can be used for both typical purposes (bathing, doing laundry) and religious rites (ritual bathing or ablutions) and there are also 'cremation ghats' where bodies are cremated waterside, allowing ashes to be washed away into the river.

We also visited a home for elderly and destitute folks that Mother Teresa had started. We happened to catch them at meal time, but didn't film them out of respect. They were being served some really good food by women who worked for Mother Teresa mission. They lived in rooms the size of my powder room and they seemed very peaceful and well taken care of.

This visit was a great surrender to the process of living and dying. It just happens here in India, as it does in all places, but here, it is not hidden.

Freak Street in Durbar Square and Dilip, our tour guide

Dilip was our tour guide in Durbar Square, we weren't interested in having one, but the word "no" doesn't seem to be in the Nepalese dictionary, or isn't easily understood. Dilip first pointed us in the direction of a good rooftop restaurant (see previous blog entry), and after that, we trusted him to take us around the area. He spoke very quickly and he had recited the same stories over and over and perfected them. He entertained us and we thought we'd capture him on video to entertain you too.

He'll tell you about Freak Street, a street that was made famous in 60's and 70's when it was one of the places people would gather when traveling the 'road east.' In its hippie prime it was the place of cheap hotels, restaurants, and hash. The sounds of JImi Hendrix and Janis Joplin blasting from 8 track players (remember them?) along with weird and wonderful freaks who gave the street its name. The Kathmandu Guest house is the place where the Beatles stayed too, and were inspired to write their song, Kathmandu (the Beatles were also in Rishikesh when they learned to meditate for the first time, a town we'll be traveling to for Shivaratri - the birthday celebration of the Hindu god, Shiva). Here's Dilip:

Kathmandu's Durbar Square for Lunch

Marty and I headed to Durbar squre, the famous hangout for hippies in the 60s in Kathmandu. Durbar Square is the religious and social heart of Kathmandu’s old city and is a complex of palaces, temples, shrines, statues and courtyards. Its hundreds of years old and feels ancient.

We had a traditional Nepali lunch on the rooftop where we could see the city. We found out about the 'living goddess' that the Newari worship (a prepubescent girl who gets replaced after she begins to menstruate. The new one was just chosen, she's three and lives in an old house in a square). We went on a tour. Surprisingly, the Nepalese speak a lot of English. Here's a little sense of the place....

Lobby of the Hyatt in Kathmandu

I know, I know, going to Kathmandu and staying at the Hyatt? Yes, we did it. And I am glad we did. We were greeted in the hotel lobby filled with stupas and temples modeled after the historic buildings in Durbar square by a man serving us delicious rose infused tea. It was hauntingly beautiful at night, the sound of the fountain, Tibetan chants and the smell of incense filled the hotel lobby. The hotel is an oasis from the noise and pollution of Kathmandu, surrounded by 15 acres of gardens and parks.

This experience is so vastly different those I've taken as a backpacker and bicyclist in the Middle East and Asia. I have been able to maintain a sense of calm throughout the entire travel experience. In the past, I wouldn't be sure if the food or drink I had opted for was going to make me sick, and I'd have to erect my tent in the middle of a hotel room to sleep without bed bugs, or dress like a man to be allowed to eat in a restaurant (yes, I'd eventually get thrown out of some when they found out I was a FEMALE!). Off the beaten path has its reward for sure however, this trip has been an opportunity to witness the very best a culture can offer. And I eat and sleep peacefully. I wish that for every being in the world.